These two small, barren tips of submerged volcanoes are surrounded by steep cliffs, undercut by waves, making it very difficult to land.

The main claim to fame of Daphne Major is that for nearly two decades it’s been the site of a major scientific research program. Peter and Rosemary Grant and their assistants, have been investigating and measuring the characteristics of the island’s varying population of Darwin’s finches over some 20 generations. The results of their work, shows an intimate and fascinating portrait of evolution as it happens in real time. Jonathan Weiner, author of a book about this research, The Beak of the Finch, which won the 1995 Pulitzer Prize, described the Grants’ project as “one of the most remarkable works in progress on this planet.”