From Machala, a road branches southeast towards Pinas and the old mining town of Zaruma, 86 km [53 miles] inland. The journey, though beautiful, is rough, and can take up three hours. Though way off most travelers’ paths, this is a picturesque area, and Zaruma, perched on a hill, has some charming old wooden buildings and a lovely timber church erected in 1912. White-skinned, blue-eyed descendants of Spanish colonialists still work old and exhausted gold mines, some dating back to pre-Columbian days. Recently-discovered pre-Columbian ruins indicate the area was well-populated before the Inca invasion.

Places to visit. There’s an enlightening Museo del Banco Central [open 9 am to 5 pm Tuesday to Saturday] dedicated to the mining industry.

From Zaruma, you can bump your way up the mountains, via Catamayo, all the way to Loja.

Getting there. There is a frequent bus service from Machala to Zaruma with Trans TAC [Sucre and Colon in Machala]. And, Transportes Paccha [close to the market in Machala] via Pinas [3^1/2 hours, US$2*].

*The prices are approximately

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||