From Salinas, you have the choice of hugging the coastline of southern Guayas down to the beaches of Playas, or taking the inland road about 150 km [94 miles] straight to Guayaquil. Heading inland, you first come to the non-descript, hot town of Santa Elena.

Places to visit. The town is worth avoiding, but it does host the intriguing archeological museum of Los Amantes de Sumpa. The well-presented museum, open every day except Wednesday, 9 am to noon and 2 pm to 5 pm, is built around one of the oldest burial grounds on the continent, dating back to 6000 bc and the Las Vegas culture. The highlight are the 'amantes' [lovers] themselves, the skeletons of an embracing couple of about 25, which must rank among the most haunting yet magical sights of the coast, and the country.

From Santa Elena, you can loop back round to the coast at Chanduy.