About 16 kilometers [10 miles] southest of Manta [or about 30 km [20 miles] west of Portoviejo] lies Montecristi, spiritual home of the misnamed “panama” hat — misnamed because the hats originated centuries ago in Ecuador, still the biggest producer.

Montecristi is a dusty town that lives on the income from its handwoven products. Concrete and cinder block buildings are occupied by weavers and shops selling hats, hammocks, mats and tablecloths. There is a fine church and the grand former residence of Eloy Alfaro, liberal president and Montecristi’s hero, whose father, Manuel, made a fortune trading in panamas. Thanks to Alfaro’s efforts to modernize the legal code, his fight for women rights and efforts to separate church and state at the end of the nineteenth century, the panama hat is an icon of Ecuador’s great liberal revolution. Sadly, in return for his vision, Eloy Alfaro was lynched in the streets by a mob incensed by his attempts to undermine the church’s power.

Getting there. Frequent bus service is available to this town from Manta. The ticket cost is around US$0.25*, and takes about 15 minutes.

*The prices are approximately

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||