The
small town
of Mindo
on the western
slopes of
the Andes,
just 40 km
[25 miles]
northwest
of Quito as
the condor
flies, is
a mecca for
cognoscenti
bird-watchers.
In the dense
surrounding
cloud forest
some 450 species
have been
observed,
including
such trophies
as the fabulous
scarlet-crested
Andean cock
of the rock,
the toucan
barbet,
the plate-billed
mountain toucan
and the velvet-purple
coronet.
But you don't
have to be
a dedicated
“twitcher”
to appreciate
Mindo's charm.
If you prefer,
you can simply
enjoy the
novelty and
privacy of
staying in
a luxury tree-house
cabana
10 m
[33 ft]
above the
ground high,
in the cloud
forest canopy.
Here in your
bamboo aerie
you can lie
under your
mosquito net
while listening
to a chorus
of toucans
sounding like
the screeching
of rusty nails
being clawed
from old lumber.
Or you can
just wander
forest paths
observing
the unique
ecosystem
of the western
slopes of
the Andes,
enjoying nature
at its most
abundant.
Rio
Mindo
gushes down
the steep
mountainside,
blazing a
foaming path
for hair-raising
white
water rafting.
But if it's
birds you're
after, your
man is Vinicio
Perez, birdman
extraordinaire,
who usually
can be found
by asking
around at
the few bars
in town. If
you still
can't track
him down,
you can leave
a message
with Vinicio's
sister in
Quito
[+593
2 612955],
who should
know the top
twitcher's
whereabouts.
If he takes
you birding,
be prepared
to get up
at 5am and
walk for two
hours up steep
slopes and
through thick
undergrowth.
Your reward
should be
a magnificent
arboreal show
staring the
incredible
crimson-coated
Andean cock
of the rock
chorus line.
Getting
there
Cooperativa
Flor
del Valle
[M.
Larrea and
Asuncion]
leaves frequently
from Quito
[US$2*,
3 hours].
Also, the
best access
from Quito
to Mindo is
via the Calcali-Esmeraldas
road. A turnoff
at Km 59 to
the left leads
you to Mindo.
Maquipucuna Biological Reserve
About 32 km [
20 miles] north of Mindo, on the same western slopes of the Andes, is the
Maquipucuna Biological Reserve, most of which is primary cloud forest. In this wildlife-rich area, species of close to 2,000 plants, of some 322 birds, more than 200 butterflies and 45 mammals have been recorded. It's no wonder that
Maquipucuna attracts naturalists like moths to a flame. For information about lodgings, prices and transport to the area contact
Fundacion Maquipucuna [
+593 2 507200; 507202] or fax [|+593
2 507201] e-mail
abi@maqui.ecx.ec. in Quito at Baquerizo 238 and Tamayo , PO Box 17-12-167.
Bellavista
Cloud Forest
Reserve
A couple of
gringos that
fell in love
with the wild
jungle landscapes
decided to
make the place
their home.
In 1991, British
backpacker
Richard Parsons,
bought a 300-acre
[120-hectare]
abandoned
farm in the
Maquipucuna
area for a
song. Using
eucalyptus
logs and bamboo,
and with the
help of local
labour and
his wife Gloria,
Parsons constructed
an ecolodge
shaped like
geodesic dome
on stilts,
with lots
of windows
and big balconies.
Built on three
levels and
roofed with
thatch, there
are five triple
rooms on the
first floor
and dormitory
rooms above.
Perched on
the edge of
a steep hill,
the futuristic
cupola looks
out over the
thick jungle
carpet of
the Bellavista
Cloud Forest
Reserve
[09
- 490891]
where tanagers,
toucans
and other
birds of this
paradise flash
brightly among
deep shades
of green.
*Prices
are approximate
Last
updated 26th
July 2006
| |Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton||| |
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