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 QUITO / EXCURSIONS
Mitad del Mundo
Hiking around Quito
Mindo, Maquipucuna, Bellavista
Antisana Ecological Reserve
Hot Springs
Zoologico Guayllabamba
 MINDO, MAQUIPUCUNA, BELLAVISTA

The small town of Mindo on the western slopes of the Andes, just 40 km [25 miles] northwest of Quito as the condor flies, is a mecca for cognoscenti bird-watchers. In the dense surrounding cloud forest some 450 species have been observed, including such trophies as the fabulous scarlet-crested Andean cock of the rock, the toucan barbet, the plate-billed mountain toucan and the velvet-purple coronet.

But you don't have to be a dedicated “twitcher” to appreciate Mindo's charm. If you prefer, you can simply enjoy the novelty and privacy of staying in a luxury tree-house cabana 10 m [33 ft] above the ground high, in the cloud forest canopy. Here in your bamboo aerie you can lie under your mosquito net while listening to a chorus of toucans sounding like the screeching of rusty nails being clawed from old lumber. Or you can just wander forest paths observing the unique ecosystem of the western slopes of the Andes, enjoying nature at its most abundant. Rio Mindo gushes down the steep mountainside, blazing a foaming path for hair-raising white water rafting.

But if it's birds you're after, your man is Vinicio Perez, birdman extraordinaire, who usually can be found by asking around at the few bars in town. If you still can't track him down, you can leave a message with Vinicio's sister in Quito [+593 2 612955], who should know the top twitcher's whereabouts. If he takes you birding, be prepared to get up at 5am and walk for two hours up steep slopes and through thick undergrowth. Your reward should be a magnificent arboreal show staring the incredible crimson-coated Andean cock of the rock chorus line.

Getting there

Cooperativa Flor del Valle [M. Larrea and Asuncion] leaves frequently from Quito [US$2*, 3 hours]. Also, the best access from Quito to Mindo is via the Calcali-Esmeraldas road. A turnoff at Km 59 to the left leads you to Mindo.

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Maquipucuna Biological Reserve
About 32 km [20 miles] north of Mindo, on the same western slopes of the Andes, is the Maquipucuna Biological Reserve, most of which is primary cloud forest. In this wildlife-rich area, species of close to 2,000 plants, of some 322 birds, more than 200 butterflies and 45 mammals have been recorded. It's no wonder that Maquipucuna attracts naturalists like moths to a flame. For information about lodgings, prices and transport to the area contact Fundacion Maquipucuna [+593 2 507200; 507202] or fax [|+593 2 507201] e-mail   abi@maqui.ecx.ec. in Quito at Baquerizo 238 and Tamayo , PO Box 17-12-167.
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Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve
A couple of gringos that fell in love with the wild jungle landscapes decided to make the place their home. In 1991, British backpacker Richard Parsons, bought a 300-acre [120-hectare] abandoned farm in the Maquipucuna area for a song. Using eucalyptus logs and bamboo, and with the help of local labour and his wife Gloria, Parsons constructed an ecolodge shaped like geodesic dome on stilts, with lots of windows and big balconies. Built on three levels and roofed with thatch, there are five triple rooms on the first floor and dormitory rooms above. Perched on the edge of a steep hill, the futuristic cupola looks out over the thick jungle carpet of the Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve [09 - 490891] where tanagers, toucans and other birds of this paradise flash brightly among deep shades of green.

*Prices are approximate

Last updated 26th July 2006


|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||
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