Otavalo's main attraction is its vibrant artesanias market. On Saturdays one of the squares in the centre of town, Plaza de Ponchos, as is it is aptly called, is covered with a labyrinth of small shops and stands selling almost every textile and craft item made in Ecuador — ponchos, woolen blankets, woven wall hangings, handknitted sweaters, scarves, gloves, hats, shirts, shawls, embroidered blouses, table cloths, string bags, baskets, ceramics, sandals, leather goods, carvings, beads, buttons, bric-a-brac, and more.

Tourists arrive here by the busload from Quito. Prices are probably a bit lower than in Quito, but you have to bargain. The stallholders will reduce their prices considerably but prefer to haggle good-humourdly. Use a lot of smiles and laughter. Walk away if the price is too high, by all means; it might just be lower when you return.

Some visitors are surprised that some of the goods are so touristy with bright, garish colours. In fact the Otavalan weavers and textile makers are quite aware of the taste of the majority of their customers, so if you're looking for unusual or antique pieces you will probably be better off going to Quito or to some of the other markets around the country.

There are three markets in Otavalo on Saturdays: the noisiest, the animal market on the western side of town off the Pana, starts at dawn with squeals of piglets, bartering Indians, flocks of chickens, lowing cows, textile and necklace hawkers, and is over by about 10am. The artesanias market in Plaza de Ponchos bustles from 7am until about 6pm. The produce market is divided between the new covered market at Plaza Copacabana near the railway station and around Plaza 24 de Mayo. The artesanias market has become so popular that not only has it spread physically into the narrow side streets off Plaza de Ponchos, but it has also stretched in time so that there are market stands in the plaza throughout the week. Many people prefer the quieter market days on Wednesdays and Fridays when prices are often lower.

As well as a great place for shopping, Otavalo is a photographer's dream. The bold colours and striking designs of the Andean textiles and wall hangings combined with the elegant costumes and strong faces of the Otavalenos make for powerful images. But it's important to be sensitive to your subjects. If possible, ask permission before you photograph somebody. The concept of minga, or reciprocity, is an important concept in indigena society. Or if you want to photograph a stallholder, buy something before you ask permission — some give and take is always appreciated. The markets are also good hunting grounds for pickpockets and sneak thieves. Be aware of your bags and cameras at all times.

The best way to photograph weavers at work is to take a guided tour of indigenas' homes. You can buy products straight off the loom and, with permission, photograph the weaving process. Tours of nearby weaving villages are also popular.

If you're in Otavalo for any length of time, and you've shopped until you've dropped, there are a few small, reviving museums. The Museo Arqueologico is attached to Pension Los Andes on Roca and Montalvo and is free to guests. It's run by a dapper, eccentric and slightly deaf senor.

The Instituto Otavaleno de Antropologia is just beyond the Pana, on the northern edge of town. It includes information in both English and Spanish and is a good introduction to the culture and traditions of the Otavalan indigenas. To see weaving in-situ without having to go to a nearby village, visit the Maldonado family on Sucre 6-08 who give demonstrations of backstrap loom techniques and sell their products. A different, 'interesting' insight into the local way of life can be seen at the cockpit on 31 de Octubre and Montalvo, where cockfights take place on late Saturday afternoons or evenings.

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Fiestas
The Inti Raymi celebrations (21st June) the Fiesta de San Juan (June 24th) and the Fiestas de San Pedro and San Pablo (June 29th).

These three celebrations are also known as Los San Juanes held by the indigenous people in Otavalo. The celebration starts at the Peguche waterfall with a spiritual private ritual. The smaller villages close to Otavalo celebrate with musicians, dancers and lots of drinking. In Otavalo, the indigenous people celebrate with costume parties in the streets and Plazas. This is a week long celebration.

On the last day (June 29th) there are other events including fireworks, bullfighting and the magnificent boating regattas on Lago San Pablo, which start in Cabanas del Lago.

The Fiesta del Yamor and Colla Raimi. These celebrations are held in the first two weeks of September, and are the most well-known and largest celebrations in the province of Imbabura. The yamor chicha [local drink made of several corn types] is prepared and given to the guests along with local delicacies. The fiestas feature plenty of dancing, processions, cockfights, local music and fireworks.

Mojandas Arriba. [31 October] This is an annual celebration that commemorates the day that Otavalo became recognised and declared a "city" by Simon Bolivar.

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Around Otavalo
Weavers villages Agato, Peguche, Iluman.

San Pablo Lake
From Otavalo there are a number of paths leading down to Lago de San Pablo, just a couple of kilometres southeast of town, which is a popular spot for water sports. If you walk via a hill called El Lechero [“The Milkman”], you get fabulous views of the lake and Volcan Imbabura.

Getting there

You can walk or take a bus all the way around the lake, stopping off at one of the hosterias. Canoes can be rented on the shore.

Mojanda Lakes
For a more solitary lakeside experience, make your way to Lagunas de Mojanda, a series of six mountain lakes 18 km [11 miles] south, of and 1,200 m [4,000 ft] higher than Otavalo. The largest of these is Laguna Grande de Mojanda, also known as Caricocha.

Places to sleep

If you want to stay overnight, bring a sleeping bag and tent because the refugios (hostals) aren't usually fit for habitation.

Things to do

Horse riding up to the lakes or trout fishing.

Getting there

The best way to get there is by taxi from town, costing about US$10*, and hike back.

Lake Cuicocha
Laguna de Cuicocha is a spectalar mountain lake about 16 km [10 miles] west of Cotacachi town. This deep blue crater lake with two islands in the middle is a popular recreation area on weekends. Motor boats can be rented to explore the lake, although the islands are off-limits because of research projects. A walk around the lake takes about five hours. Be warned: those berries that look like blueberries are something else — and they are poisonous. A round-trip by taxi from Cotacachi costs about US$10*. There are two decent restaurants nearby as well as a modest place to stay on the hill.

The lake is part of the enormous Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve that stretches down the western highlands to the tropical lowlands of Esmeraldas Province. Just south of the reserve and about 40 km [25 miles] west of Lake Cuicocha is the remote village of Apuela, set in the deep Andean cloudforest. Nearby are the Nangulvi Thermal Baths. Basic accommodation is available. There are a few buses each day along the scenic but jolting road between Otavalo and Apuela.

Forest Reserves
The rich and humid cloudforests, populated by a huge diversity of plants, birds and mammals, are disappearing even faster than the better-known rainforests. Deforestation on the western slopes of the Andes is threatening the survival of mammals such as mountain tapirs, spectacled bears, spider monkeys and pumas. In an attempt to counter this destruction, several adventurous and dedicated individuals have established protected reserves. Their objective is to safeguard the forest from logging, conserve the natural environment and protect endangered species.

*Prices are approximate

Last updated 20th July 2006

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||

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