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 LATACUNGA / PLACES TO VISIT

Most visitors use Latacunga as a base from which to explore the region, spending little time in the town. Those that do tend to congregate around Parque Vicente Leon, the tourist area of the city. The main municipal buildings are found here, as is the city's cathedral, most recently restored in 1973.

A lively, sprawling market spreads over several blocks east of Rio Cutuchi, the big day being Saturday.

If you suffer from cultural withdrawal symptoms while in Latacunga your best bet is to visit the Molinos de Monserrat Museum of ethnography and art, on Vela near Maldonado, open Tuesday to Saturday on an erratic basis.

Festivals

An unusual characteristic of the usually macho male Latacunganos is their love of dressing up as black women. This they do at the Fiesta de la Mama Negra, a raucous occasion of street dancing, heavy drinking, Andean music and fireworks, held each year on September 23 and 24.

Another parade in honour of the Black Mama takes place two weeks later. On November 11 Latacunga celebrates its anniversary of independence with bullfighting and yet more exuberance.

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Around Latacunga
Several remote Andean villages are hidden in the mountains above Latacunga. The circuit known as the 'Latacunga Loop' takes in several of these villages and the emerald-blue crater lake of Quilotoa. It's one of the most beautiful trips in Ecuador. It's an adventurous journey: roads are rough, directions confusing and there are reports of many beggars in the lake area. It's probably best to go by car with a guide, but you can also take a bus as many of the villages are connected with Latacunga. Check return times carefully before you leave, and seek advice from hoteliers in Latacunga.

About 14 km [nine miles] north of Zumbahua you come to Laguna Quilotoa. The road is badly signed, so if you are driving you will need to ask for directions. The lake isn't visible from the road and you have to climb up to the crater rim before you can look down onto the emerald waters surrounded by steep volcanic slopes. A precipitous path goes down to the water's edge and it takes five or six hours to walk around the lake. Near the crater rim is the small community of Ponce-Quilotoa.
Tigua paintings, carved masks and other artifacts are on sale. Warm clothes are needed because it gets chilly at night here. The daily bus from Latacunga to Chugchilan passes through the community.

Continuing north around the Latacunga Loop, you come to the village Sigchos. Don't bother to stay unless you plan to hike in the Toachi Valley. Going westwards, the road continues through Toacazo and then turns south back towards Latacunga. On the way you can stop off in Saquisili, a small town with a big reputation for its Thursday market, one of the best-known and most commercially-important in Ecuador. Though interesting textiles are on sale, the market is more a living, working Andean emporium and a central hub for the web of communities of indigenas in the surrounding mountains who come to town to do their trade and meet friends. Visitors are attracted by the colourful costumes of the local people, the main theme being red ponchos and felt pork-pie shaped hats.

South of Latacunga, 14 km [nearly nine miles] on the road to Ambato, you pass through the town of San Miguel de Salcedo. It's an unremarkable place, except for fans of ice-cream who say the town produces some of the best in the country.

Last updated 19th July 2006

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||
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