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 BANOS DE AGUA SANTA / PLACES TO VISIT

It would be a missed opportunity to go to Banos and not experience a hot spring bath. The main baths are the Banos de la Virgin by the waterfall at the southeast end of town. There are showers, changing rooms, three pools of varying temperatures, and the cost is minimal. Dress code: a bathing suit. The baths open at 4:30am. The earlier you get there the better - a dawn immersion in a hot spring sets you up for the day. Even more pleasant are the baths at El Salado, about a mile out of town off the Ambato road. These are less crowded and there are more pools. There's also a cold waterfall to cool off your steamed-up body.

Some people complain that the baths are dirty; it's true that they aren't as immaculate and modern as their counterparts in, say, Japan. But don't be concerned by the slight colouration in the water; it is caused by the water's mineral content. The other complaint from some gringas is that they get stared at by the locals, which is all the more reason to go early when fewer people are around.

Outside of town, heading down on the road to Puyo, about 20 km [12 miles] down the rough but dramatic old road you come to the village of Rio Verde. From here, walk down a trail to the right which takes you down into the canyon the Rio Pastaza where there's a mighty waterfall, aptly named El Pailon del Diablo, the Devil's Cauldron. Below the canyon is a wooden suspension bridge and a path that leads to El Otro Lado, [the Other Side], an exquisite house with three separate cabanas that is totally isolated and surrounded by dense jungle and views of the canyon. The hosteria shut unfortunately in 2000, and its future is uncertain. You can ask Quito or Banos travel agents for any news.

There are many good walks and horse rides around Banos. A popular excursion is up to the Bella Vista cross that overlooks the town, about an hour's steep walking up a path leading off Calle Maldonado. Bring a stick in case of dogs, and it's best to go in a group because robberies have been reported in the area. Other walks include a two-hour climb to Illuchi village that gives you great views over the Banos valley and to Volcan Tungurahua, or else the longer hike to the village of Lligua, via the falls of Cascada Ines Maria.

Just 20 minutes' walk from the town along the Ambato road is the San Martin Zoo, a surprisingly large and well-maintained ecozoologico with a variety of native animals and birds including jaguars, tapirs, spectacled bears, harpy eagles and condors. Many died in the trauma of evacuation, but the zoo was up and running again in 2001. Also recommended is the Basilica, dedicated to the Virgin of the Holy Water, and its adjoining museum.

 

Last updated 6th July 2006

|Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton|||
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