Banos
is one of
the most popular
destinations
for tourists
and travellers
in Ecuador.
This small
town, nestled
in a valley
surrounded
by steep,
green mountains
has long been
a well-regarded
hot spring
resort, and
in recent
years has
grown to become
a favoured
stop on the
gringo trail.
This popularity
was dramatically
cut short
in 1999 however,
when the nearby
Volcan
Tungurahua
decided to
vent its lava
spleen. The
local authorities
placed the
town on orange
alert, with
a high likelihood
of a major
eruption.
In October,
they ordered
the evacuation
of the town's
20,000 inhabitants
and closed
the roads
in and out
of the town.
Months later,
the feared
major disaster
hadn't happened,
and while
tour operators
offered tours
to view the
erupting mountain,
desperate
local residents
literally
fought their
way back to
their homes
and jobs.
By early 2001,
the town had
resumed its
'normal' slow-paced
life, though
the threat
of eruption
and evacuation
is ever-present.
International
restaurants,
reasonably
priced hostels
and hotels,
several adventure
travel agencies,
access to
both the jungle
and the mountains,
plenty of
nearby attractions
and activities,
an agreeable
climate and
some fine
shops — all
of these make
Banos a good
spot to hang
out for a
few days or
more in a
relaxed atmosphere.
Beneath its
touristy surface
Banos has
its own small-town
character
and charm,
but, when
all's said
and done,
“it's one
of those places
that everyone
visits simply
because everyone
else
goes there”
as the author
of The
Gringo Trail,
Mark Mann
, put it.
One curious
local specialty
is toffee
made from
sugar
cane,
which you
can see being
pulled in
sticky strings
from hooks
in shop doorways.
Background
Extraordinary
paintings
of what appear
to be death
and disaster
in the Basilica,
dedicated
to the Virgin
of the Holy
Water, are
a clue to
the popularity
of Banos with
local Catholics.
Images of
people falling
from breaking
bridges as
they cross
ravines, cars
toppling from
cliffs or
villagers
fleeing erupting
volcanoes
are as violent
and lurid
as Japanese
comic books.
But there
is an important
difference.
In the Banos
paintings
nobody gets
hurt because
at the last
moment they
are saved
by the miraculous
intervention
of the Virgin
of the Holy
Water. Like
St. Christopher,
the Virgin
has the power
to prevent
accidents,
which is why
many people
believe it
to be a wise
precaution
to make offerings
and prayers
to her image
before embarking
on a long
journey. Also
of interest
at the Basilica
is the adjoining
museum with
the usual
display of
ecclesiastical
costumes,
stuffed animals
and freak
fetuses. One
calf's head
preserved
in formaldehyde
has three
eyes, two
noses and
a triple palate,
which is reminiscent
of some modern
art.
Also believed
to have special
powers is
the holy water
itself that
is generated
in the bowels
of Volcan
Tungurahua
and emerges
in the Banos
de la Virgin
and other
outlets. Bathing
in and drinking
these waters
is said to
cure various
ills and is
a major attraction
for visitors.
The town's
location also
makes it a
gateway between
the jungle
and the sierra.
Last
updated 7th
July 2006
| |Article contributed by Dominic Hamilton||| |
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